The Yeager's
Kawasaki Ninja 250R Maintenance
Introduction
The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, in part, allows one to choose who
performs maintenance on your motorcycle. As long as proper
maintenance and competence is documented then you or any shop you
chose may maintain your bike and you will not void the manufacturer's
warranty. For further information see the following links: Autopedia
Entry or the Federal
Trade Commission Entry. This website is
my documentation on all maintenance performed on my
Kawasaki Ninja 250Rs.
Technical
Consultants
- Kawasaki Ninja 250R (GPZ 250R) Motorcycle Service Manual
- Kawasaki Ninja 250R (GPX 250R) Motorcycle Service Manual
Supplement
- Kawasaki 2008 Ninja 250R (EX250J8F) Motorcycle Service
Manual
- The
Ninja 250 Riders Club Site
- Sherman Power
Sports (My Local Dealer)
General Maintenance
Tips
The following are some handy tips and techniques I have picked and
found to be particularly useful
- Pay rapt attention to maintenance schedule and torque specifications.
- Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40:
- "Classic" Ninja 250 (model year 2007 and earlier) specific tips
- Every time you change the oil on a 2007 and earlier Ninjette take the time to remove, disassemble, and
clean the
cam chain
tensioner. Upon reassembling the
cam chain
tensioner liberally coat the internal parts with Silkolene Pro RG2 Synthetic before refitting
the tensioner to the engine case. The details of the procedure I follow
may be found
via this
link.
- Drill out the spot weld on the right hand ignition coil
bracket so that you can easily remove the bracket with the coil
when inspecting the valve clearance. Removal of the bracket will
not only provide additional working clearance but will also enable
one to remove the cylinder head cover without the draining and
removal of the radiator.
- Set the valve clearance using the classic 2 feeler gauge
method and a Kawasaki valve clearance tool. Use .004 inch (.102
mm) as a "go" and .005" (.127 mm) as a "no-go" for intake valve
clearance; .005 inch (.127 mm) as a "go" and .006" (.152 mm) as a
"no-go" for exhaust valve clearance.
- Ninja 250R (model year 2008 and later) specific tips
- The
lack of a center stand make it rather difficult to lube the chain in a
timely manner so I lube and wipe the excess from the part of the chain I can get
to after each ride while the chain is hot.
- Front and rear stands are a must with the EX250J8F (2008 and later).
-
Adjusting the valve clearance on an EX250J8F.
Recommended
Tools
- Good quality basic Metric mechanic's tool set: (Sears Craftsman,
Span-on, etc.)
- 1/2" drive 22mm socket (for the front axle)
- 1/2" drive 24mm socket (for the rear axle)
- 1/4" socket drive to 1/4" hex-head screwdriver bit
adapter
- 1/4" drive universal joint
- #2 and #3 Phillips 1/4" hex-head screw driver bits
- 3 mm, 4mm, 6 mm, 8 mm Allen 1/4" drive hex-head bits
- A "shorty" #2 Phillips screwdriver (for synchronizing the
carburetors and removing/refitting the forward mounting screw on the belly
pan with no interference from the front fender))
- Feeler gauge with metric measurements; I also have a metric feeler
gauge.
- Torque wrenches. (I have three: a 0-75 ft-lbs deflection bar
torque wrench, a 0-150 ft-lbs deflection bar torque wrench, and a
25 to 250 inch-lbs ratcheting torque wrench)
- Micrometer
- Kawasaki valve adjustment tool for the 1988 through 2007
- Motion Pro carburetor synchronizer
- A jack(s) for lifting the bike (if you plan to
change your own tires)
Maintenance
Journal Entries
The Yeager's Kawasaki Ninja 250R Break-in Procedure
The Yeager's 2005 Kawasaki Ninja 250R
The Yeager's 2008 Kawasaki Ninja 250R
Adjusting the valve clearance on an EX250J8F
Return to
The Yeager's Kawasaki Ninja 250 Site
The Yeager's Kawasaki Ninja 250s
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America
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